We first properly understood Tuscany not in a Florentine enoteca or a Siena wine bar, but in a small trattoria outside Greve in Chianti where the house wine arrived in a ceramic jug and cost less than the pasta. This was in the early 2000s, well before we moved to California, and it did something particular to us: it made a convincing case that Sangiovese, when it comes from the right place and is handled honestly, is one of the world's most quietly remarkable grapes.
We say quietly, because Sangiovese rarely announces itself with the immediate fruit-forward charm of a Napa Cabernet or a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. It takes a beat. It has high acidity, firm tannins, and a savoury, cherry-skin character that can read as austere until you pair it with food, at which point it transforms entirely. The Italians have a phrase for wines that perform best at the table: vini da pasto. Sangiovese is the vino da pasto by which all others are measured.
The Chianti Classico zone sits between Florence and Siena, a stretch of rolling hills, cypress trees, and medieval villages that looks, frankly, like a landscape painting that got out of hand. The wines produced here, under the Chianti Classico DOCG designation, are made predominantly from Sangiovese, with the better producers using 100% of the grape rather than blending in international varieties.
The hierarchy runs: Annata (basic release), Riserva (minimum 24 months' ageing), and Gran Selezione (minimum 30 months, from a single vineyard or the estate's finest selection). Gran Selezione was introduced in 2014 and has given Chianti Classico a credible top tier that it previously lacked on the world stage. The estates making Gran Selezione that consistently hold our attention are Fontodi and Castello di Ama. Fontodi's "Vigna del Sorbo" Gran Selezione (around $75) is Panzano's benchmark: structured, mineral, and built for a decade of patience. Castello di Ama's "San Lorenzo" comes from a single vineyard in Gaiole and has a darker, more brooding character that rewards at least five years in the cellar.
For an everyday bottle, the standard Chianti Classico from Castello di Volpaia (around $25) is one of our go-to recommendations for anyone who wants to understand the region without committing to a serious investment. It is honest, food-friendly, and represents the style clearly.
South of Siena, the hilltop town of Montalcino produces what many consider Italy's greatest red wine. Brunello di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese, known locally as Sangiovese Grosso or Brunello, and it must spend a minimum of five years ageing before release, six for the Riserva. The result is a wine of extraordinary longevity. Great vintages need ten years before they begin to open properly; the best reward twenty or more.
The region was essentially invented by Ferruccio Biondi-Santi in the late 19th century, and the Biondi-Santi estate remains a pilgrimage site for collectors. Their wines are priced accordingly. For bottles that offer comparable seriousness without the three-figure price tag, we keep returning to Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona (around $65 for the standard release), a family estate that farms biodynamically and makes Brunello of genuine depth and consistency. Il Marroneto's "Madonna delle Grazie" (around $90) is another that regularly surpasses wines costing twice the price.
Two caveats on Brunello: first, vintages matter enormously. The 2016 is exceptional and widely available now; the 2015 is slightly richer and more immediately approachable. The 2017 was affected by drought and is variable; buy with care. Second, Brunello rewards decanting. Two hours minimum, longer for older vintages.
In the 1970s, a handful of Tuscan producers grew frustrated with the restrictive DOC rules of the era, which mandated grape blends and ageing practices they considered outdated. Their solution was to bottle their best wines outside the designation system entirely, selling them as humble Vino da Tavola. These became the so-called Super Tuscans, and they are now among Italy's most collected wines.
The coastal area of Bolgheri is the epicentre. Sassicaia, from Tenuta San Guido, is Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant with a structure and ageing profile that draws regular comparison to Bordeaux. It now has its own DOC, the only single-estate DOC in Italy. Ornellaia, from the same zone, blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot to produce something rounder and more accessible in youth. Both are prestige purchases ($150+), but neither disappoints if the occasion justifies it.
For something that combines Sangiovese with international varieties at a more reasonable price, Antinori's Tignanello (around $85) is the starting point. It is the wine that essentially defined the Super Tuscan category in the early 1970s and it remains an excellent introduction to the style: structured, complex, with Sangiovese's characteristic acidity underpinning the richer Cabernet influence.
If we were putting a Tuscan case together for someone coming to the region's wines for the first time, we would build it around three bottles: the Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico for an introduction to the regional style, Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello for a serious evening, and Tignanello for a dinner where the wine needs to hold its own as a talking point. Between those three, you get a reasonably complete picture of what Tuscany does best.
What we find consistently moving about the region, having spent time there and drunk through a fair number of bottles on both sides of the Atlantic, is its refusal to be smooth. Sangiovese is a grippy, angular, occasionally difficult grape, and Tuscany's best wines make no apology for that. They ask you to slow down, to eat, to pay attention. That is not a small thing in an era of wines designed primarily to be immediately likeable.
If you want to talk through any of these bottles, or you are looking for something specific for a dinner, a gift, or just to try something new, drop us an email or give us a call. We enjoy these conversations, and we would be happy to point you towards something that fits what you are after.
Chianti is a broad DOC covering a large area of Tuscany. Chianti Classico is a separate DOCG designation covering the original historic zone between Florence and Siena, with stricter rules around grape varieties, yields, and ageing. Chianti Classico is generally the more serious and age-worthy category, and bottles carry a black rooster (Gallo Nero) seal on the neck.
Well-made Brunello from a good vintage can age comfortably for 20 to 30 years, and the very best examples from top estates in exceptional years can go longer. The legal minimum release age is five years from harvest; most serious bottles benefit from a further five to ten years in the cellar before they reach their peak.
Sangiovese's high acidity and firm tannins make it an ideal companion for tomato-based pasta dishes, grilled meats, aged cheeses, and anything with a degree of richness or fat. The classic Florentine pairing is Bistecca alla Fiorentina, a thick-cut T-bone grilled rare over charcoal. More practically, a good Chianti Classico is one of the most versatile food wines we stock.
The flagship Super Tuscans such as Sassicaia and Ornellaia are priced at the prestige end of the market and represent a genuine investment. Whether they are worth it depends on what you are comparing them to. At $150 to $200, they compete with top Napa Cabernets and mid-tier Bordeaux; in that context, the quality is demonstrably there. If you want to explore the style at a lower entry point, Tignanello at around $85 is the most historically significant of the lot and regularly over-delivers at its price.
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