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04/08/2026
Off the northwest coast of Africa, seven volcanic islands belonging to Spain produce wines unlike anything on the European mainland. The Canary Islands have vineyards planted on volcanic ash, lava flows, and pumice soils at elevations that would be impractical in most wine regions. Some vineyards on Tenerife sit above 1,500 metres, making them among the highest in Europe.
The detail that sets the Canary Islands apart from every other European wine region is that phylloxera never reached them. The root-destroying pest that devastated the continent's vineyards in the late 1800s could not cross the Atlantic to these isolated islands. The vines here are ungrafted, growing on their own original rootstock, and some are 100 to 200 years old. These pre-phylloxera vines produce wines with a depth and mineral intensity that grafted vines rarely match.
Volcanic Terroir
Each island has a distinct volcanic history, and the soils vary accordingly. Lanzarote's vineyards are planted in jet-black volcanic ash from eruptions in the 1730s. Tenerife's slopes are composed of layers of basalt, pumice, and volcanic clay deposited over millions of years.
On Lanzarote, vines are planted individually in hand-dug pits called zocos, hollowed-out craters in the volcanic ash, each surrounded by a low crescent wall of lava rock called a geria. These structures protect the vines from the Atlantic trade winds while the black ash acts as a moisture trap, absorbing dew and funnelling it down to the roots. It is one of the most visually striking vineyard landscapes anywhere and a practical adaptation to an environment with almost no rainfall.
Tenerife, the largest island, has nine denominations of origin. The northern slopes of Mount Teide receive moisture from the trade winds, creating a cooler, more humid climate suited to aromatic white varieties. The southern slopes are drier and warmer, favouring reds.
The Grapes
The Canary Islands are home to grape varieties that survived phylloxera precisely because of their oceanic isolation. Many were once common across mainland Spain and Portugal but went extinct there centuries ago.
Listan Negro is the islands' most important red variety. From old, ungrafted vines, it produces wines of medium body with bright red fruit, a smoky mineral character from the volcanic soil, and fine tannins. The best examples come from high-altitude vineyards in Tenerife's Orotava Valley and Tacoronte-Acentejo, where the combination of elevation and volcanic soil gives the wines a tension and complexity that rewards attention. Wine-Searcher's Listan Negro page provides a good overview of the variety and its producers.
Listan Blanco (also known as Palomino on the mainland) makes crisp, mineral-driven whites on the islands that bear no resemblance to the neutral wine it produces in Jerez. Volcanic soils and ocean influence give it vibrant acidity, saline minerality, and flavours of green apple, white flowers, and crushed stone.
Malvasia Volcanica is a Canarian mutation of the ancient Malvasia grape, adapted to volcanic soils. It produces intensely aromatic whites with tropical fruit, jasmine, and orange blossom, balanced by a mineral backbone that keeps them from becoming heavy. Dry versions work well as aperitif wines; sweet late-harvest versions recall the Malmsey wines that were famous across Europe in the Renaissance.
Other varieties worth noting include Baboso Negro (a rare red producing dark, spicy wines), Vijariego Negro (elegant and aromatic), and Marmajuelo (a white variety with tropical notes and good texture).
Producers to Look For
Envinate is a collective of four winemakers who produce some of the most critically acclaimed wines in Spain, with a particular focus on Tenerife's old-vine Listan Negro. Their single-vineyard bottlings from different volcanic zones are studies in how soil and altitude shape the same grape into different wines. Their Taganan Tinto, from north-facing coastal vineyards, is a good starting point: red fruit, smoke, and Atlantic salinity for $25 to $35. The single-parcel wines run $35 to $50.
Suertes del Marques, based in Tenerife's Orotava Valley at 600 to 700 metres elevation, produces Listan Negro and Listan Blanco with notable precision. Their Trenzado white, from old-vine Listan Blanco, is a textured, mineral wine that demonstrates what volcanic soils do to a variety that is unremarkable on the mainland. $20 to $45.
Bodegas El Grifo, Lanzarote's oldest winery (founded 1775), makes Malvasia Volcanica in dry, semi-sweet, and sweet styles from vines grown in the black-ash pits. The dry Malvasia is aromatic, mineral, and good value at $15 to $25.
Vinatigo on Tenerife has been instrumental in rescuing and reviving nearly extinct Canarian grape varieties. Their varietal bottlings are as close as you can get to tasting pre-phylloxera viticulture in the present day. $15 to $35.
Food Pairing
Canary Islands wines tend to have moderate alcohol, bright acidity, and volcanic minerality, which makes them versatile with food. Listan Negro pairs well with grilled fish, roasted chicken, tuna steaks, and mild goat cheeses. Its smoky character suits anything cooked over a flame. Malvasia Volcanica works with ceviche, grilled prawns, and dishes with citrus or ginger. Listan Blanco is a good match for sushi, light pasta, and fresh cheeses.
Canary Islands wines are becoming more available in the US through specialist importers, though supply remains limited. We carry bottles when we can source them and are happy to help track down specific producers. Browse the current selection at arrowsmithwine.com or email us at info@arrowsmithwine.com.
Frequently Asked Questions
What makes Canary Islands wines different from other Spanish wines?
Three factors distinguish them: volcanic soils that contribute a smoky mineral character, pre-phylloxera ungrafted vines (some over 200 years old) that produce grapes with concentration and depth, and indigenous varieties like Listan Negro, Malvasia Volcanica, and Baboso Negro that are found nowhere else. The combination produces wines that taste unlike anything from mainland Spain.
Why did phylloxera never reach the Canary Islands?
The Canary Islands sit in the Atlantic Ocean roughly 100 kilometres from the nearest landmass, and that geographic isolation prevented the pest from crossing. The volcanic sandy soils also provide a natural barrier, as phylloxera struggles to survive in sandy conditions. This means Canarian vines still grow on their original rootstock, producing wines with a purity that grafted European vines cannot replicate.
How much do Canary Islands wines cost?
Entry-level bottles from producers like Bodegas El Grifo and Vinatigo start around $15 to $20. Mid-range wines from Suertes del Marques and Envinate typically range from $25 to $50. Even the most prestigious single-vineyard bottlings rarely exceed $55 to $60, which represents strong value given the age of the vines and the uniqueness of the terroir.
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