Jura Wines: France's Most Wonderfully Weird Wine Region

The Jura sits between Burgundy and the Swiss border in eastern France. It is one of the smallest wine regions in Europe, covering barely 2,000 hectares of vines, less than a tenth the size of Bordeaux. The wines it produces are unlike anything else in France, built on grape varieties and winemaking techniques that exist nowhere else in the same combination.

Sommeliers and collectors have known about the Jura for years, drawn by the oxidative whites, the pale reds, and the singular character of Vin Jaune. Demand has grown considerably as the natural wine movement has introduced the region to a wider audience, and prices have risen accordingly. The best producers now sell out quickly, and allocations are increasingly difficult to secure.

Vin Jaune: Aged Under a Veil of Yeast

Vin Jaune is the Jura's most distinctive wine. Made exclusively from the Savagnin grape, it undergoes a process in which the wine is transferred to old Burgundy barrels that are deliberately not topped up. Over a minimum of six years and three months, a film of yeast called the voile forms on the surface, protecting the wine from full oxidation while allowing a slow, controlled exchange with air. The process is similar to what occurs during the ageing of Fino Sherry, but Vin Jaune is unfortified and ages far longer.

The resulting wine is deep gold with aromas of walnuts, curry spice, dried apricot, and roasted almonds. On the palate it is bone-dry with high acidity, concentration, and a finish that lingers well beyond the last sip. It is bottled in the 62-centilitre clavelin, a squat bottle said to represent what remains of a litre of wine after six years of evaporation through the barrel. An opened bottle of Vin Jaune will last for weeks thanks to its oxidative stability.

The appellation of Chateau-Chalon is considered the finest source of Vin Jaune, though excellent examples are also made in Arbois and Cotes du Jura.

The Grapes

Savagnin is the Jura's white flagship. Beyond Vin Jaune, it is also made in an ouille (topped-up) style without the oxidative yeast veil, producing wines with steely acidity, green apple, white flowers, and a waxy, honeyed quality. Ouille Savagnin is one of the more versatile food whites in France, structured enough for rich fish, roasted poultry, and creamy cheeses.

Trousseau is a red grape that produces pale, transparent wines with more flavour than their colour suggests. It delivers red and dark fruit (cherry, strawberry, plum), earthy spice, and a peppery, herbal character. The best examples, from old vines on marl soils, develop real complexity with a few years in bottle. A good Trousseau from a serious producer costs $25 to $45.

Poulsard (sometimes spelled Ploussard) makes what may be the palest red wine you will encounter, almost rose in colour but unmistakably red in flavour. It offers delicate wild strawberry, raspberry, and redcurrant with earthy, mushroom-like undertones and a fine, silky texture. Serve it slightly chilled. It costs $18 to $35 from a reliable producer.

Chardonnay is planted extensively in the Jura, where it takes on a different character from Burgundy: richer, more savoury, often with a subtle nutty quality even when made without oxidative ageing. Jura Chardonnay from a good estate offers an interesting comparison with its more famous Burgundian counterpart at a fraction of the price.

Producers to Look For

Domaine Tissot (Stephane Tissot) makes an extensive range from crisp ouille Chardonnay to Vin Jaune, along with single-vineyard Trousseau and Poulsard that are among the benchmarks for those varieties. His Arbois Trousseau En Barberon, from a single parcel of old vines, is dark-fruited and spicy with genuine depth. $25 to $75 depending on the bottling.

Domaine Ganevat, run by Jean-Francois Ganevat, produces biodynamic wines from old vines that are among the most sought-after in France. Allocations are small and prices reflect the demand ($40 to $100+), but even his entry-level bottlings repay attention.

Domaine Labet produces Chardonnay and Savagnin from high-elevation vineyards with precision and clarity. Good value at $25 to $45.

Les Dolomies, run by Celine Gormally, makes bright, energetic wines that serve as a good entry point for anyone new to the Jura. Her Trousseau and Poulsard are straightforward and well-made. $18 to $30.

Domaine Overnoy-Houillon in Pupillin is effectively the origin point of the natural wine movement. The wines are produced in tiny quantities and command high prices, but they represent the Jura in its purest form.

Food Pairing

Vin Jaune with Comte cheese is the classic pairing, and it works because the nutty, oxidative character of the wine mirrors the complexity of the aged cheese. Vin Jaune also pairs well with chicken cooked in cream and morel mushrooms (poulet aux morilles), the Jura's signature dish, and with lobster, crab, and curried dishes.

Trousseau suits charcuterie, roast pork, duck confit, and earthy mushroom dishes. Poulsard, served slightly cool, works with salmon, tuna tartare, and fresh goat cheese. Ouille Savagnin is a strong match for roasted white fish, risotto, and fondue.

Jura wines are produced in small quantities and availability in the US depends on specialist importers. We carry bottles when we can source them and are always happy to help locate specific producers. Browse the current selection at arrowsmithwine.com or email us at info@arrowsmithwine.com.

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